July 2026 · Riviera Éternelle

The Riviera

Villefranche is not a suburb of Nice. Cannes is not a festival. Monaco is a machine that happens to have a harbour. Four essays on the coast that invented arriving.

The place in a minute

Why here
A coast that invented arriving, and then confused the village with the palace.
The difference
Villefranche faces the water and the hill. Cannes faces the Croisette. Monaco is the opposite of a village.
This season
The festival is three weeks when the palaces are not hotels. Book them when they are.
The limit people miss
A liner is a public house that happens to move. It is not a yacht, and it does not leave tomorrow.